Thirty-two - Letting the Old World Soak into my Bones
29 September 2025
Made it to Athens yesterday, the drive from the airport showed that people haven’t ventured far from the past, white walls and terracotta rooves. The place inside where we are staying is filled with hardwood furniture, chiche, just goes to show how little we know when we look at the dilapidated outside. The winding streets and mess outside give way to not just a very settled, easy luxury, but also a communal area unseen from the streets.
We are a half hour walk from the Acropolis, but the buildings cut our view. I wanted so much to see it, but it will have to wait till tomorrow. Today we go to Thermopylae and the Delphi. 10 hours of driving apparently. I’ve heard Thermopylae is poo, but it doesn’t matter, it all started there, this journey I’ve been on, the nobility of that final act. I never knew what it was about, the wider net and scope of such a massive conflict, but that moment has been pretty seminal to me.
The drive out of Athens shows how dilapidated this joint is. Lots of broken buildings. Feel like the vegetation is the same. Graffiti is interesting too - it's everywhere and surprisingly in English. Other than the usual tags from discontented youth, there’s lots of appeals to escape ‘this’ life.
It’s raining today. I don't think it could rain enough. But there is still a sense of something amongst the people, I see it in how they drive. Yesterday I kicked a door in for a lady who couldn’t open it. I’m glad I could help; didn’t understand a word she said.
The lake that supplies Athens is almost empty. It was very, very apparent how low it is as we drove past. Can’t really lament the rain of today.
The National Highway cuts its way through the countryside of mountains, dilapidated buildings, high wires and groves.
Went to Thermopylae today. I didn’t feel the ghosts, but the immensity of the site. OMG, it was an experience. Our travels there and to the Delphi have really emphasised the mountains and valleys of Greece and the kind of people this place would spawn. Spoke to Spiros our driver about the graffiti, it’s all political or in support of soccer-clubs. I asked why it was in English and he said it was for the tourists. He has been excellent, a beautiful human being. I’m glad we got to enjoy the drive in a small van, less noise - more focus.
The Delphi is so much about the politics of climbing. FMD my lungs were burning. But it was fascinating, as was the town. To think that a millennia ago, people could build this place and also establish their treasuries there is impressive. They also have a lovely town there. The museum was okay - highlighted by actual original artefacts.
Shame their staff lack any common sense.
30 September 2025
Walking to our sightseeing bus stop, I saw the rock upon which the Acropolis sits. Then coming around the bend, we finally saw it. Cool isn’t the word for it, uplifting is more apt. It amazes me how much history is around us, more than any place I’ve seen to date.
Pretty sure our bus stopped to let the PM into his offices.
We’ll be doing this all day, hopefully head to the Piraeus as well. Tomorrow we see the Acropolis.
Politics is huge here, so is the police presence. So many slogans - especially for the freedom of Cyprus.
The audio on this bus blows, currently hearing ‘God Save the King’ - no insight into what we are seeing, or very little of the history. Really basic.
Yesterday our driver Spiros (top bloke by the way) described our travels up to Delphi as driving amongst the clouds. This was true, but I added this is where the god’s walk and he agreed with a nod and a smile. We understood each other. Having said that, I’ve looked at the Acropolis as I wait for the bus to the Piraeus. And fuck me if I don’t dread the walk up there. It will be hard, but that’s the point, right? To be closer to the gods. I’m sitting here below the Acropolis; a sign points to where Socrates poisoned himself. This place dominated Ancient Athens in every way.
Spiros also told me that even though the Piraeus is only seven kilometres away from Athens, they consider themselves another city, divided by a road. I wonder how long the ties of time have led to this, was there some dispute or lack of recognition? Time will tell.
The ‘city’ of Piraeus is definitely different; there’s more money, the stores are more upscale and the buildings generally in better upkeep.
1 October 2025
Tiff just asked if she’d get the feels up in the Acropolis as she did at the Lincoln Memorial. I avoided that answer. We both felt great joy when we first saw it, so I imagine we will. Darran did say for him, it felt like the holiest place on Earth, on some level, I’ve wanted to go ever since he said those words and find out for myself.
The walk up is cleansing in a way, the only focus is to make it up to the Temple. Everywhere you look, it’s Athens, you can imagine the city growing, some isolated pockets, all encompassed as the rings grow outward from this place. It makes sense, if you centre your city here and not at the Piraeus - it is the defining feature, a grand rock and grandness atop it.
People are scurrying around, taking shots, the models up here looking to get the best shot for insta or whatever bullshit they use. Do they know the significance of this place, this city, this culture? For a people to dedicate not one, but two temples to Athens here, to make this the centre of their world for it to survive so many takeovers, is pretty astounding.
So, I put the earphones in, cancel them out and listen to Chris, the other big touchstone of my cultural life. I smile; a beer and a smoke would probably make this moment perfect.
Worlds collide, as they have all trip and hopefully will continue to do so. Not going to lie, when we got in the car to go to Thermopylae AIC and then Soundgarden on the radio, knew it would be a good day. It was an epic day.
Is this the holiest place? Maybe not, but do I feel its importance? Without hesitation - yes. Seeing as Athens is surrounded by mountains, their world is defined geographically, but it acts like a cauldron that spills out. To be Athenian sets you apart from all Greeks, there is no competition and the fact they claim to have been born of this land adds weight to the argument and zero sentimentality.
My kids are playing in the dirt as kids do. I hope it never washes off, I hope it sinks into their skin and flows in their blood, I hope something of this place guides them, because they knew things better than we do and we have access to it all and yet will never be so wise.
2 October 2025
Arrived in Naples; not going to lie - it feels like home. The food, the people, the iconography, so good. It’s like I’ve been living in hiding, being from here and then being a Napoli supporter, but everyone here is. So good.
I’d shoot the fuckers who think driving down lanes on scooters or little cars is cool. We’re staging somewhere that is like the Plaka in Athens except wilder. This place is what I imagine living in a small town on the side of a hill would be. Even found a church hidden away. More like a cathedral. Tomorrow we are off to Pompeii - not bothering with the guide, hopefully I’m up to it.
3 October 2025
The thing that stands out in Pompeii is that not much seems to have changed. Had Pompeii not been covered over by time, it might resemble the ancient/historic part of Napoli that we are staying in. The small streets, the store fronts, the hidden gems. So much is hidden behind these doors and entrances, past water features and shrines. Obviously I get the historical significance of it all, but the thing I find as I wander around Naples and Pompeii, despite my need for solitude, is that I am very much at peace in this place. Is it because they are like me, is it because they talk and when I do it, I’m shouting? Is it that simple? Is that all I need to feel at home? Would my boys and their impetuous behaviour mean they would also fit right in?
I could quite easily live here, not just Napoli, but Athens too - six months of the year could be awesome. I can see how it's more than a lifestyle choice, but a calling, letting the old world soak into my bones.